Size Guide

Bat sizing is a very tricky area to get right, but it is imperative to the technical development of the young cricketer that we do so. It's certainly not a precise science, as every youngster is different and as any parent will know, they often come equipped with oddly sized limbs and apparently mismatched extremities! In the final analysis, it is results that count and whatever helps the cricketer to produce consistently positive outcomes is what is right for them...and that's highly individual and often unpredictable.

Finding the right size of bat for the young cricketer remains, to some extent, trial and error. Try out various sizes - most clubs will have a range of bats that the young cricketer can experiment with, or failing which, try their school or friends. Encourage them, if possible, to ignore the weight and pick up of the bat and focus on length. We would far rather have the youngster use a bat that is slightly short than one which is too long as the shorter bat will be easier to control and will thereby facilitate correct stroke development.

To test for size, start by placing the bat alongside the young cricketer while they stand to attention. As a rule of thumb, the top of the bat should be more or less level with their trouser pocket. Much further up than the top of the trouser pocket and the bat is too big.

Next, have them stand in their normal stance - assuming a relatively normal stance, the handle of the bat should be roughly two-thirds of the way up the thigh measuring from the top of the knee. If they are unduly crouched or upright, the bat is likely to be mis-sized. Have them try a few shots. If they cannot keep the bat comfortably vertical when playing a drive, the bat is most likely too big. If other shots are laboured or clumsy, the same probably applies. Remember, if you have to err, err on the small side.

There are two main areas in which we would urge extra caution:

We know that good bats are not cheap, which is why we are trying to offer a good quality range at sensible prices. However, the mentality that says get a bigger bat and let the cricketer grow into it is seriously flawed! It can take coaches a long time to establish basic shots in a young batter, but it takes far longer still to 'un-learn' bad habits that have crept in because the bat they have been using is too long or too heavy to allow proper stroke play
For all the usual sorts of reasons, youngsters equate bat size with maturity and bat weight with power - the bigger and heavier the bat, the further and harder they will hit it. Wrong! The better the stroke development and the more they practice with correctly sized equipment, the better they will hit it

If there is any doubt remaining as to the correct size, take the weight into consideration. Our bats are produced within a closely controlled weight range specified for each size of bat, based on our experience of the weights that work best for most young cricketers. However, you can ask us for a heavier or lighter bat, according to need. The best test of the weight of the bat is to swing the bat with only the top hand (left hand for a right handed batter). If the batter can make sound, well-controlled straight and cross-batted strokes with a controlled backswing, then the weight is pretty much correct.

Player's Height	Age Guideline	Bat Size	Total Length	Blade Length	Blade Width
4'6" to 4'9" 1.37m to 1.45m	8 to 10	Three	28.5" 72.3cm	19.5" 49.5cm	3.5" 8.9cm
4'9" to 4'11" 1.45cm to 1.50cm	9 to 11	Four	29.5" 74.9cm	20" 50.8cm	4" 10.2cm
4'11" to 5'2" 1.50cm to 1.575cm	10 to 12	Five	30.5" 77.4cm	20.5" 52cm	4" 10.2cm
5'2" to 5'5" 1.575cm to 1.65cm	11 to 13	Six	31.5" 80cm	21" 53.3cm	4" 10.2cm
5'5" to 5'8" 1.65cm to 1.73cm	12 to 14	Harrow	32.5" 82.5cm	21.5" 54.6cm	4.12" 10.5cm
5'6" to 5'9" 1.675cm to 1.75cm	15+	Standard Blade Super Short Handle	33" 83.8cm	22" 55.9cm	4.25" 10.8cm
5'9" and above 1.75cm and above	15+	Standard Blade Short Handle	33.5" 85.1cm	22" 55.9cm	4.25" 10.8cm
5'11" and above 1.80cm and above	15+	Long Blade Short Handle	34" 86.4cm	22.5" 57.1cm	4.25" 10.8cm
5'10" and above 1.78cm and above	15+	Long Blade Super Short Handle	33.5" 85.1cm	22.5" 57.1cm	4.25" 10.8cm
6'2" and above 1.88cm and above	15+	Standard Blade Long Handle	34.5" 87.6cm	22" 55.9cm	4.25" 10.8cm
6'4" and above 1.93cm and above	15+	Long Blade Long Handle	35" 88.9cm	22.5" 57.1cm	4.25" 10.8cm

Buyer's Guide

In its crudest terms it's just a plank of wood from a relatively common, otherwise unremarkable tree; around three feet long, about four inches wide and weighing in somewhere around the two and three quarter pounds mark. Yet In the hands of a Hammond, Bradman, Gower, Richards, Lara or Tendulkar, it can perform magic!

The primary consideration for any bat is the question 'does it go'? Cricketers the length and breadth of the country will pore over lumps of wood with wonder and awe in their eyes as they discuss tales of how much power their bat generates. You can be sure that youngsters are doubly affected by this condition. Yet for the most part it is the batsman, or at least the actions of the batsman that define how well the ball is struck.

Power comes from a range of sources, few of which relate to the muscular development of the batter - weight transference, footwork, good hands, a keen eye, allowing the ball to 'come on' and so on. All of these combine to make 'timing', the magical quality that allows the smallest of batters to stroke the ball to the boundary with the minimum of apparent effort. Technical orthodoxy helps, but ultimately, getting the right bat in the right place at the right time and in the right manner counts for a heck of a lot, as anyone who has ever been clouted into a field by someone of more rustic demeanour will testify.

Having a good bat is almost as important as using it properly. Bat weight - or more accurately, a concentration of wood around the sweet spot of the bat - is an important factor in making a 'good' bat. But a heavier bat becomes more difficult to use, especially for the younger cricketer and especially when executing the horizontal bat strokes, so balancing out that weight is vital.

In developing the PRO-Kit ranges we have assimilated all of the expertise and experience of many cricket seasons and combined it with technical nous of the Pro-Coaching team to create a bat with a profile that concentrates the 'meat' where it is most needed without making it over heavy and without impacting the 'pick-up'.

A range of factors contribute to the effectiveness of the bat and as real bat anoraks, we at PRO-Kit take pains to ensure these factors are consistent feature of all our bats:

Quality of Willow - willow is a spongy, 'spring-loaded' wood that naturally grows next to rivers and in boggy areas, hence the natural air pockets in the timber. English willow, often specially grown in Essex, is generally accepted as being the best willow in the world and is generally slightly lighter than it's counterpart from Kashmir. It is typically harvested at 15-20 years old and graded on a number of points, including the number and straightness of the grains and the degree of blemishing.

Number of Grains - grains are the natural 'stripes' that occur in the wood and are caused by the annual growth rings in the trunk. Clefts (raw planks of willow to be made into bats) with many grains - sometimes as many as 20-22 - are often seen as making the best bats. However, this many grains means older timber and whilst it will make a beautiful bat, it isn't likely to last well, partly due to the age of the wood. Top pros may select a 20 grain bat for quality, but they will not expect to get more than one innings from it before it begins to crack and break. PRO-kit therefore tend to look for willow with between 6 and 12 grains. The fewer the grains the more knocking in will be required, but you are likely to get a bat that will last.

Straightness of Grains - whilst aesthetically pleasing and governing the Grade that the timber is assigned, the straightness of the grain has relatively little to do with how a bat actually plays. Ironically a piece of wood that has lots of blemishes may be earmarked as lower grade willow yet it will often make a wonderful bat, albeit one that may need more knocking-in.

Pressing of the Bat Face - the harder the face is pressed, the better it will take the impact of the ball and the less knocking-in it will need. Conversely, the bat will be less responsive as the wood in the face is less elastic on impact with the ball. This will sometimes be felt as jarring in the handle. Modern bats are often not pressed as hard as their equivalents of 30-40 years ago, allowing much larger profile bats without too much additional weight, but this does make patient and effective knocking-in an absolute pre-requisite. All of PRO-Kit's bats are hand-pressed by experienced professionals who understand the best level of pressing for each individual piece of wood as the bat is made, thereby ensuring optimum performance.

Pick-Up - another near magical quality of a good bat. Aficionados will talk in hushed tones of bats weighing in at 3lbs that 'pick-up' like they are 2lb 9oz!! Yet there is no question that the pick-up of the bat - the balance and feel - is a major (qualitative) factor in how it plays. The bat will be picked up many times in the course of a single innings and if it picks up like a housebrick on a stick, it's not going to be too much fun! The pick-up is defined by the length of the handle, the length of the blade, the weight of the bat and the size and location of the 'meat' - the wood concentrated over the sweet spot of the bat. One valuable tip that can improve the pick-up of almost any bat is to add one or more additional rubbers to the handle.

Bowing & Handle Shaping - All PRO-Kit bats have faces that are professionally 'bowed' and handles that are attached with a slight forward rake as viewed from the side. This helps keep the hands in front of the ball at the point of contact and enhances both control and technique.

Preparation & Maintenance - if you have read this far, you will understand how important the knocking-in process is. It helps to stabilise the spongy face of the willow, toughening it and preparing it for impact with the ball. Oiling is essential with all our bats - we only supply natural faced bats - but over-oiling and oiling in the wrong areas must be avoided. (See our Bat Care Guide for more details) The cricket season is only about five months long and the treatment of the bat in that seven month off season is every bit as important as its treatment during the season. Avoid storing it in excessively warm and dry, or cold and damp conditions - many a wonderful blade has emerged from a winter in an airing cupboard as brittle as matchwood and ready to break on its first outing of the season.

Judgement - in the final analysis and although all of the above factors are important, a bat can apparently have everything going for it and still not play well...irrespective of the skill of the operator! What really matters is the way it plays, not the way it looks, so PRO-Kit do as much as humanly possible to ensure that every bat we sell has all the signs of being a belter - and we do have a fair amount of experience with bats! But it isn't a precise science and we are unlikely to replace a bat just because it doesn't go as you would like - after all, we can't see you play, the conditions you are playing in, the opposition, or anything else. But we will work with you to try to help you get the best from the bat

Care Guide

A batter's best friend is their bat. Yet for all they are an expensive item, cricket bats are not, and cannot be, designed to last forever. Ironically, the sweeter the bat, the more prone to damage it may be - and we've surely all had one of those horrible 'planks' that seem almost indestructible?

Having invested in a bat you need to make sure that you take every precaution to prolong its life as much as possible. That can be something of a grind, but when the ball is pinging off a well-tuned blade it's all worthwhile, especially if you can maintain that level of performance from the bat over several seasons through good care and maintenance.

The unique characteristics of willow - essentially a soft, fibrous reed - means that individual blades require individual attention to obtain the optimum performance. Performance and durability are enhanced by drying and pressing and crucially, by knocking in. The condition of the bat will deteriorate during its usage as the willow becomes bruised, scarred or dented by the impact of the ball, but performance will not normally be affected.

Life Expectancy
There is no definitive lifespan for a bat, as it is dependent on many factors. As a rule of thumb, with luck and care, a good bat should last around one year from date of purchase. Getting two or more years from a bat is not in any way unusual, but it will depend on:

Preparation - knocking in and oiling

Care and maintenance - especially in the off season

Weight and thickness - heavier and thicker blades tend to be more durable

The amount of use

The skill of the batsman - avoiding edges and hits on the toe of the bat are important

Sheer good luck

Ironically, poorer quality or poorer performing bats which may be made from harder, poorer quality wood and are likely to have been heavily pressed may actually last longer than a better blade.

Preparation
Proper preparation of a new bat is a painstaking process requiring around 8 hours of effort. It includes a mixture of oiling - to keep the wood supple and prevent water penetration - and knocking in, which compresses and knits together the fibres of the willow to provide strength and resistance to the impact of the ball.

Using raw linseed oil only - never use boiled - apply four coats of oil to the front and edges of the bat, allowing each coat to dry fully before applying the next. Each coat should be no more than a teaspoonful, applied using a cloth or the bare hand. One or two coats can be applied to the back of the bat, but stay well clear of the splice and any stickers

When the final coat of oil is dry, the knocking in process can begin. It is best to use a bat mallet as 'traditional' methods such as a ball in the hand or in a sock is neither hard or accurate enough to do the job properly. To a large extent, the performance and effective life of the bat are governed by the knocking in process - it will take a minimum of six hours and we would recommend that you do not cut corners!

Start gently - the point of the exercise is to make the face, edges and corners of the bat adjacent to the face harder and more resilient, so there is little point risking damage at this early stage. Burr or bone the sharp corners between the face and edges by dragging them across an old stump or similarly rounded piece of hard timber

Give attention to the edges as well as to the face. Do not hit the edges directly with the bat mallet - you would not normally strike the ball in this way in play, so there is no need to do this when knocking in. Instead, use the mallet to deflect blows over the edges and corners between the face and edges in the same way that a ball might during a game

Gradually increase the force of the blows until they are of a similar strength to a ball hitting the bat during a game. Make sure the blows to the edges remain glancing blows so that the corners between the face and the edges take on a compact, nicely rounded appearance
As you approach six hours of work on the bat, check progress by running your hand along the bat face to feel for hollows and indentations. If there are some, more knocking in is required. You can check progress on the edges by pressing firmly with the edge of a ruler. If it leaves a mark, keep knocking in

Next, if possible, try the bat with old balls by hitting some catches or gentle throwdowns in the nets. The key is to make good, firm, but not excessive conact as you assess the progress of the knocking in process. Marks and indentations mean that further knocking in is required
Begin using the bat in outdoor - not indoor - nets and against old balls. If indentations and seam marks appear, further knocking in is required. Try not to use your new bat for the first couple of net sessions of a season as your eye will not be in and you are more likely to make contact away from the middle of the bat

Begin to use the bat against newer balls in the nets. If indentations and seam marks appear, it is not ready for match play. If they do not, you can start using it in match conditions. Further knocking in work can help to further improve the performance of the bat, even though it is otherwise ready for match play

We recommend applying tape to the edges of the bat to provide further protection against snicks and edges.

Oiling
Over-oiling is a bigger danger to bats than not oiling at all. It can damage the wood fibres and deaden the bat. Prior to oiling, lightly sand the blade with fine sandpaper to remove dirt and ball marks. More experienced bat maintainers may choose to do this with the edge of a sharp blade held (carefully!) perpendicular to the blade.

Oiling should be carried out a maximum of twice per season - prior to the start of the season and (optionally) again towards the end of the season.

To oil your bat properly:

Only use raw linseed oil

Use no nore than a teaspoonful of oil

For best results, apply with the fingers and palm of a bare hand...trust us here!

Alternatively use a soft, clean cloth

Concentrate on the face and edges taking pains to avoid the splice and the stickers.

The back can be oiled but sparingly

If possible, keep the bat in a horizontal position as the oil dries

Storage
Storing a bat in excessively warm and dry conditions is, to be frank, tantamount to a death sentence for a bat as it will cause the bat to become tinder dry and ready to break. Damp conditions are clearly not ideal for a bat either, but stored flat in the normal atmospheric conditions of a watertight garage or shed - which will allow the bat to absorb a little of the ambient moisture - will do nicely for over-wintering.

Avoid keeping your bat in the boot of a car for any longer than necessary as the temperature can vary wildly between extremes.

Damage & Warranty

Assuming normal use and reasonable care you should expect to get at least one year's worth of use from your new bat and growth spurts notwithstanding, the reality is that it should last several years.

In the unlikely event of 'abnormal' damage or defective workmanship, the PRO-Kit warranty covers you for twelve months from date of purchase. Please refer to our 'Damage & Warranty' section for details on how best to address the matter.

The Complete Guide to Bats

Size Guide

Buyer's Guide

Care Guide

Damage & Warranty